The Spring/Summer 2026 season felt like a collective reset for fashion. Across Paris and Milan, heritage houses placed their futures in new hands, with creative directors stepping into roles that carried both immense pressure and possibility. The results were varied. Some found strength in restraint, others in spectacle. Let’s take a closer look at this season’s Milan Fashion Week debuts.
Gucci by Demna – September 23rd 2025
Stephanie: Demna’s debut collection “La Famiglia” feels like a highlight of Gucci’s best creative moments, an homage to its community, identity and to the previous designer that shaped what it is today. After Sabato di Sarno’s attempt to reinvent Gucci, Demna had to choose a different path: he reminded the public of the roots that made Gucci iconic, bringing back the logos and Tom Ford’s sensual tailoring, side tied speedos and unbuttoned shirt. But can looking back really bring the brand forward? By blending elegant Italian tailoring with street wear and adding his signature touch of realism through slouched jackie bags and unconventional proportions, Demna managed to honour the brand’s identity while staying true to himself as a designer. I think he successfully modernized the fashion house and launched a new era at Gucci: Gucci by Demna.
Mae: La Famiglia was such a strategic reset for Gucci. It was unconventional in the sense that it chose storytelling over spectacle. This choice, however, was not unexpected. With Gucci’s revenues down 25% year-on-year in Q2 2025 (as announced by Keiring), a costly runway would have sent the wrong signal. The collection started with L’Archetipo, a monogrammed trunk that anchored the collection in the house’s origins. Each look afterwards represented a facet of Gucci’s identity reinterpreted through Demna’s lens, such as floral prints from Vittorio Accornero’s 1960 design or the signature double-G belt. It showed that revisiting heritage in unfamiliar ways can be both a financial and creative act of discipline.
Alexia: While Gucci was struggling both financially and creatively with Sabato De Sarno’s abrupt exit after only two collections, Demna Gvasalia’s appointment was met with skepticism. An ominous start as the stock even dipped on announcement. Yet, against all odds, the man who turned Balenciaga upside down, proved the doubt premature. His daring vision felt on point this time around – a beacon of hope for him, Gucci, and us. The collection was indeed full of surprises: an unconventional show format, an astute reinterpretation of the house codes, and an acclaimed Demna. For the first time in years, Gucci feels fresh and fun again. An unexpected but much-needed revival.
Final Verdict: SMASH!
Jil Sander by Simone Bellotti – September 24th 2025
Siena: Jil Sander is known for its sculptural coats, minimalist knitwear, suiting, and a tonal colour palette. Simone Bellotti hewed closely to the brand’s strong id, whilst playing with fabrics and pops of colour. Jil Sander once said her collections grappled with, “strictness and lightness, grace and severity, control and freedom”. The tension between the minimal, structured blazers and coats with the sheer tops and metallic shoes exemplified Sander’s vision well. It was a strong debut collection, albeit maybe lacking in excitement. It was a 5/10.
Mae: Simone Bellotti’s debut for Jil Sander felt like a natural continuation of the brand’s “Queen of Less” legacy. It mirrored the house’s minimalist roots but introduced a softer palette and subtle hints of colour. This shift followed the quiet departure of Luke and Lucie Meier after seven years, as OTB Group aimed to refresh its luxury portfolio. With the group’s overall sales down 3.1% in 2024 after a strong 17% rise the year before, Bellotti’s restraint made sense. The collection definitely does not stand out as the season’s boldest or most extravagant, but it does capture the essence of modern minimalism.
Final Verdict: PASS!
Versace by Dario Vitale – September 26th 2025
Siena: Dario Vitale called his reimagining of Versace “an awakening”, drawing on late-’80s pieces for inspiration. Versace is synonymous with sexiness in opulence, eveningwear and elegance. Vitale kept the sensuality but translated it into low rises, undone zips and belts, and unfinished hems; gowns were absent. It was another burst of bright colour in Milan, fast becoming the week’s trend. A strong collection overall, though one that Versace loyalists may need time to embrace.
Alexia: The critical backlash to Dario Vitale’s debut at Versace was swift and severe, perhaps too severe. While the collection was not flawless, it was not devoid of substance either. Vitale offered a clear homage to Gianni Versace, even if this tribute sometimes lacked refinement. It may not have reflected Donatella’s sophistication, her opulent sensuality, but the echoes of the house’s legacy were there.
Stephanie: What is Versace without its signature glamour? Dario Vitale’s debut collection embraced a full 80’s approach as a clear homage to Gianni Versace. The clash of bold colours and the styling felt polarizing and lacked cohesion. Even though we can see a trace of Vitale’s miu miu background through a western touch and interesting layering, the collection does not feel very young or fresh. For the past 3 decades, Versace thrived on glamour, boldness and seduction. However, the latest show lacked sensuality. It would be important to continue with the original spirit forward, it is what makes Versace what it is today.
Final Verdict: PASS!
Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter – September 28th 2025
Mae: Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta felt like a much-needed refresh. Blazy’s era at the house wasn’t anything groundbreaking, so this new direction stood out immediately. The collection explored structure through unexpected materials, most notably the fiberglass fringe used across several jackets and skirts. The pieces caught the light and moved fluidly. It felt modern yet still rooted in Bottega’s tradition of Italian craftsmanship and material experimentation. Financially, the brand remains one of Kering’s most stable performers. Sales rose about 4 percent in 2024 to €1.7 billion and continued to climb into 2025. I wouldn’t be surprised if this success continued in 2026. Elegant, forward-thinking, and beautifully made, it ranks among the season’s best.
Stephanie: In Louise Totter’s debut for Bottega Veneta, texture is the main character. The collection featured interesting materials such as recycled fiberglass that shimmered with light. Garments moved beautifully, even structured pieces were flowy. The collection remained true to Bottega’s identity with the signature “intrecciato” craftsmanship used on pants, jackets and accessories. Overall, it felt very bottega but very refreshing at the same time, Louise Totter’s successfully delivered a “wow” debut.
Alexia: Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter: a true demonstration that buzz is not the determinant of a successful show. The second of only two female creative directors among fifteen debuts this season gave us a masterclass in building a new wardrobe while fully respecting a brand’s DNA. The signature intrecciato motif reappeared beautifully, woven into jackets, cardigans, and pants. The craftsmanship was impeccable and no detail was spared, from the tiniest leather weaves to the subtle asymmetry of a tucked collar. Her ability to bring fluidity to rigid materials, even turning fiberglass into something soft and wearable on a coat or a skirt, was remarkable. Furthermore, the playful mood of the Maison was seamlessly interlaced with its luxurious quality, all the way to the newspaper held by a model, which was woven with leather and added a casual feel to the ready-to-wear collection. Bottega Veneta’s social media silence mirrors Trotter’s design ethos of quiet luxury. And her perspective as one of the few women designing womenswear at this level brought an authenticity that felt deeply refreshing. This is what happens when women are given the creative reins: precision, depth, and innovation. In this brilliant debut, Louise Trotter’s talent spoke for itself.
Siena: Louise Trotter’s announcement as creative director of Bottega was met with little fanfare – with bigger names switching between bigger brands, her appointment was overshadowed. That was a mistake; her collection showed the power of having a woman behind the helm in an industry with so few. Maintaining Bottega’s signature eye for craftsmanship, she refreshed its vision for womenswear, incorporating colour, brightness, texture, and oversized clothes in a way that still felt elegant. Choosing to use recycled fiberglass rather than fur for her gorgeous skirts and sweaters encapsulated the collection: innovative, meticulous and fresh.
Final Verdict: SMASH!
Written by Alexia Delcaire, Mae Lucie Panzani, Siena Jackson, and Stephanie Nassif
