Demna Gvasalia or his “pen name” known simply as Demna is one of the most polarizing yet visionary designers in modern fashion. From the war-torn streets of Georgia to the high-gloss fashion runways of Paris, his path is as unconventional as the clothes he creates. With his recent appointment as Gucci’s new creative director, the industry is abuzz: is Demna the shake-up Gucci needs? Born in Sokhumi, Georgia in 1981, Demna’s early life was marked by instability due to the Abkhaz–Georgian conflict, which forced his family to migrate to various European countries before eventually settling in Düsseldorf, Germany. His academic path initially pointed toward economics, but it was the world…

Not too long ago, “gatekeeping” was a dirty word online. It was synonymous with exclusion and snobbery – a behavior to be called out and canceled. If you had information (a makeup dupe, a store find, or a playlist) and you didn’t share it, you risked being called out. Social media thrived on radical transparency: tag the brand, drop the link, share everything. But somewhere along the way, the narrative shifted. Today, gatekeeping in some circles is not only acceptable, but aspirational, and the new it-girl mantra on social media is Gaslight, Gatekeep, Girlboss. Take the viral TikTok of a girl being asked about her signature scent. Her reply? “Oh,…

Gone are the days when a luxury logo alone could justify an eye-watering price tag. Today, consumers aren’t just buying products, they’re buying into stories, sometimes more carefully crafted than the products themselves. From a brand strategy perspective, this makes sense: Bain & Co. in 2023 revealed that Gen Z and Millennials make up over 50% of global luxury spending. Crucially, their buying habits show a shift away from symbolic consumption, towards more value-driven consumer behaviour. Thus, storytelling of brand heritage functions as not only an indispensable marketing strategy, but one of value creation. This article looks into just how ‘real’ these stories are. Using Dior as a case study,…

What does it mean to be a feminine brand? Is there a strict opposition between femininity and feminism? Should fashion be a vehicle for political and social ideas? Such questions are perpetually being revisited by the designers of the foremost high fashion houses. Since 2016, Dior’s ninth, or should we say first woman, creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri (MGC) audaciously blends fashion and feminism. Both back and front stage, the Italian designer sticks to her relentless commitment to empower women. At the heart of her leadership is the strong, collective assertion of what it means to be a woman today, thereby re- and auto-defining femininity. The historical Maison flourished when…

A clear idea of the brand’s legacy to address future challenges. INTRODUCTION: VERSACE NOW Recent tumultuous changes involving Versace raise questions about the future of the brand. On April 10th Prada Group announced to buy 100% of Versace from Capri Holdings for €1.25 bn. On March 13th, Dario Vitale, former design and image director of Miu Miu, was appointed to replace Donatella Versace as the new Chief Creative Officer, marking the end of a significant era in the fashion world. But what do these changes mean? To answer this question, it’s necessary to recount Versace’s legacy and understand the reasons behind the drastic actions undertaken by the management. “I am…

The Designer Domino Effect: When One Falls, Who’s Next? In recent years, the constant shuffle of creative directors has sparked controversy, affecting fashion houses both financially and artistically. This ongoing reshuffling raises critical questions about creativity, branding, and the future of fashion. Some may argue that these changes reflect the industry’s natural evolution, with brands seeking fresh perspectives to navigate contemporary challenges. However, I believe that this constant turnover has reached a point where it no longer serves a meaningful purpose. What once brought fresh energy, innovation, and dynamism has now become a sign of discontent, inconsistency, and a desperate search for direction and identity. In the past, creative directorship…

Every year, the Oscars red carpet acts as both a grand stage for Hollywood’s finest and a reflection of the current fashion landscape. The 97th Academy Awards were no exception. This year’s fashion moments felt particularly rich in symbolism, with archival nods and couture craftsmanship taking center stage. My favorite look of the night had to be Ariana Grande in custom Schiaparelli for her performance, a gown as rich in meaning as it was in visual impact. The deep red piece was stunning on its own, but the real statement lay in the single red shoe affixed to the back of the dress — a detail that carried a brilliant…

Around the 2010s, the advent of the online world revolutionized the entire marketing industry, switching the strategy in fashion from brand marketing to performance marketing. Performance marketing shifted the focus away from “telling a story” to a more data-driven approach, only paying partners when buyers take pre-defined actions. This new analytical approach was lauded as a way to promote maximum effectiveness in marketing, a notoriously unpredictable field, and has had widespread impacts on consumer engagement, brand perception, trendsetting, and overall business success. However, the future of fashion marketing announces itself to shift away from simple performance marketing, mixing past strategies and new trends to achieve brand goals. (P) What is…

Synonymous with jet set and glamour, Emilio Pucci fastly became one of the most worn fashion brands by the high-class society of the 60’s and 70’s. The vibrant splash of colors in Emilio Pucci’s designs not only symbolized freedom of expression but also liberated the woman’s body from the rigid, sober tailored suits of the previous decades. It mirrors a form of rebellion and feminine freedom that revolutionized society and modern art. However, with the rise of minimalism and the death of Emilio Pucci, the brand struggled to keep up its influence, having a hard time coming up with creative innovations. Today, Pucci’s designs are once again being spotted everywhere…

In early December, it was announced that the Nike-owned virtual sneaker brand, RTFKT, would cease operations. RTFKT, founded by Benoit Pagotto, Chris Le, and Steven Vasilev, sought to merge their passions for video games and sneakers. It demonstrated that the multi-billion-dollar sports apparel giant was exploring the realm of NFT and virtual goods within their brand. In April 2022, RTFKT revealed a virtual sneaker collaboration, allowing customers to design shoes with customizable ‘digital skins.’ Although physical replicas were available for purchase in very limited quantities, the digital sneaker was undeniably the main product. Shortly after this project, however, crypto prices crashed and given the volatility of the market, there was…