For its 78th edition, the famous Cannes Film Festival took place on the French Riviera from the 13th of May to the 24th of May. In addition to its memorable screenings, the many red carpets were expected to set the stage for iconic fashion moments. However, an unexpected dress code was put forth the night before the event’s start, creating a new barrier to artistic freedom. This announcement ignited both applause and outrage, altering the galas, which are as integral to Cannes as the films themselves.
Published on the festival’s website, it appeared, “For decency reasons, nudity is prohibited on the red carpet,” with a ban on “voluminous outfits, in particular, those with a large train […] that hinder the proper flow of traffic.” Although implemented due to understandable technical and safety concerns, the announcement was vague and sudden, leaving designers, stylists, and celebrities unprepared right before the event.
Initial reactions from stylists were mixed. On one hand, the new rules were seen as a restoration of the “classic” Cannes glamour. On the other hand, they were associated with an attack on expression. Some, like Rose Forde, Maeve Reilly, and Ashay Tyagi, voiced their frustration. Specifically, due to the lack of communication, many discovered the new rules via social media or secondhand press reports. A few even argued the regulations were going against the festival’s heritage: “Cannes is one of the most glamorous and exciting red carpets, and I’ve always loved seeing the extravagant gowns and couture pieces that grace the Palais steps” (Maeve Reilly). Extravagance has, in fact, always been at the heart of the festival, pushing boundaries on the red carpet.
Looking back at some of Cannes’ most iconic past looks, it is easy to see many would not be deemed appropriate today. Madonna’s 1991 lingerie moment, already controversial in its time, would be outright banned. Cameron Diaz’s breezy, fish-net style from the early 2000s would be close to violating the decency clause. Naomi Campbell, who has worn a series of sheer and dramatically cut gowns over the years, would be taken off the red carpet. Similarly, Bella Hadid with her 2021 Schiaparelli dress (a gold necklace-shaped bodice on her chest) or her light brown sheer dress worn last year, would not be accepted. This list of names also includes influencers such as Leonie Hanne, who has worn voluminous colorful lavish gowns for years.
Hanne also attended the festival this year, responding to the dress code with a video of her numerous past looks and a caption stating “No carpet rules were broken wearing these dresses.” This reaction is definitely not that of all those who attended this year. Halle Berry, a member of the jury, switched from a sculptural Gaurav Gupta gown with a dramatic train to a minimalist Jacquemus look, insisting that she did not want to break the dress code. This however, meant that her stylist had to rethink months of preparation in only a few hours. Having to scale back overnight not only tested logistics but also dulled the original artistic vision. Not only Halle Berry’s, but most of the changes meant looks were less diverse, less thought-through, and less adapted to each celebrity.
Still, some used the new guidelines as a way to stand out more, even if that meant defying them completely. Heidi Klum, Wan QianHui, Elie Saab and Alessandra Ambrosio are a few examples of those who turned heads with voluminous gowns. On the side of the nudity clause, Elsa Hosk, Stella Maxwell, and Leonie Anderson all wore partly, if not full see-through outfits. Apart from small warnings backstage, these small acts of rebellion did not seem to offend the organisers of the red carpets, and celebrities were still allowed to walk.
Looking ahead, it is unclear whether or not these rules will become permanent fixtures, or if they will be removed due to the original backlash they provoked. Hopefully, the festival will at least review them to be more specific. If that becomes the case, some designers might even embrace the challenge of creating within these new clear constraints. Most likely though, there will still be uncertainty about how just it is to prevent artists from putting their visions to life, even if those visions include sheer fabrics, or extra long trains. What is certain is that Cannes has set a precedent, and all eyes will be on how future festivals around the world respond.
By Mae Panzani
