From Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent

In 2012, the world witnessed Hedi Slimane’s daring entrance into Yves Saint Laurent as he dropped the “Yves”, rebranding it as simply “Saint Laurent”. The new creative director didn’t only change the name, he completely redefined the energy of the brand, making this moment the most significant turning point in its history. Slimane’s fearless entrance perfectly matched his rebellious designs and the rockstar energy brought to the runways.

Since it was a drastic change from Yves Saint Laurent’s original vision, the shift was subject of lots of debates.

In an industry that requires constant innovation, could Saint Laurent adapt without compromising its entire identity? Is this considered a visionary shift or a betrayal of the band’s legacy?

Before Slimane’s entry in the fashion house, YSL was initially known for sophisticated designs, synonymous with French elegance. In between his classic creations, the fashion genius, Yves Saint Laurent, managed to seamlessly blend art and clothes creating a huge success in the 60’s. He introduced Le Smoking Tuxedo jackets for women confronting traditional gender stereotypes. It was revolutionary at the time, a symbol of high fashion.

Yves Sain Laurent’s Archive Looks

In the late 2000’s, the brand encountered a few challenges by trying to stay relevant and its growth started slowing down. This is when Hedi Slimane entered the fashion house turning it upside down. From “Yves Saint Laurent” to “Saint Laurent”, the designer announced to the world a fresh start unscared of change with no fear of failure or controversy. His designs perfectly embody this sense of fearlessness and rebellion targeting a younger, bolder audience. The new creative director started producing rockstar’s uniforms by introducing leather jackets and skinny jeans. The entire identity shifted from quiet refined luxury to a loud and edgy brand.

Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent

On one hand, critics were offended by the erasure of “Yves” from the name of the luxury house. Everyone was shocked by the “disrespect” to the initial founder and to the brand’s legacy. On the other hand, a new crowd, the new generation, became obsessed with Slimane’s work as he showcased fresh and cool designs. He successfully made it the most talked-about brand for a decade. The fashion world got divided between heritage and reinvention.

In this specific case, innovation overpowered traditions and the brand doubled in revenue. YSL was always a respected name with loyal clients but Slimane made it one of the most profitable brands. It went from having annual sales of €300 million in 2011 to €700 million after Slimane in 2015. It experienced a 50% growth in sales in 2 years and represented a significant portion of Kering’s revenue.

Some people were convinced that the change was a betrayal of YSL’s original identity. “Is it still the same brand?” some may ask. YSL was created with the intention of reflecting Parisian elegance. However, the French style of today is not the same as it was 30 years ago. Nowadays, French icons such as Camille Rowe and Jeanne Damas embody the typical Parisian style of effortlessness with an edge. We’re talking about rock-chic with a vintage twist and messy hair; it’s the Slimane effect. With that perspective, the creative director didn’t really erase the brand’s initial essence. Instead, he became trendsetter by modernizing and redefining French elegance to match his designs.

Overall, Hedi Slimane didn’t really betray the identity of Yves Saint Laurent. While the shift was undeniably major, it is fair to say that he simply modernized what Yves started while respecting the brand’s initial vision and purpose. Instead of Le smoking tuxedo, the new creative director used lots of leather and skinny pants to achieve the same goal that was set all along: empower women through strength and sensuality while challenging traditional gender roles. What many saw as a betrayal was actually a visionary shift necessary for the brand’s survival in such a growing industry.

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